From bold architectural statements to playfully irreverent luxury, Seoul is rewriting the rules of global retail. The General Store’s Reid Nakou explores how the Korean capital is setting a new benchmark for design, beauty and brand experience – and why the world is now watching.
Some cities create truly enduring and meaningful impressions.
These are often places that exhibit a distinctive energy, soul and character – informing memorability, genuine engagement and, importantly, emotional connection with a place. For me personally, and in a business context more specifically (as much as I’d like to talk about holiday destinations here!), there are a handful of cities I often find myself fantasising about and ones I’d uphold as the ultimate standard in design, retail, and customer experience. Over the past decade, this unique group has included the likes of Tokyo, Amsterdam, New York, Paris and Bangkok – places pioneering the future of our industry with real swagger, courage and mind-blowing creativity. But, there’s a new kid on the block – a city punching well above its weight and quickly positioning itself as the most exciting retail city in the world – and one I believe is just warming up.
Welcome to Seoul.
In an effort to distil the sheer depth and breadth of insights from our time in this electric city, three key themes became apparent: the luxury retail rethink, the new beauty capital of the world, and the role of architecture in creating the ultimate brand temples and customer experiences.
The luxury retail rethink
As you walk the streets and neighbourhoods of Seoul, you quickly get a sense that things just feel different here. Brands are breaking all the rules and conventions around what we’ve come to expect of (traditional) luxury retail and are having a blast in the process. More specifically, two key things are happening: a rapid reframing of conventional value perceptions, led by premium fashion/sub-luxury brands, and a newfound love for playfulness and irreverence (across both the luxury and sub-luxury sector). In relation to the former, I’d consider this to be one of the most interesting developments in the retail industry right now. More and more brands are retailing above and outside of their price tag, creating environments that democratise premium experiences and services, surprise and delight. Kith, Golden Goose, Ader Error, Olive Young (Seoul’s version of Priceline) and Zara (perhaps more European and Asian flagships, specifically), represent a handful of brands leading the way here, with many others following in their footsteps, and in mid-market capacity.
In relation to the second theme, and without getting too philosophical (or controversial), we have a tendency to take ourselves too seriously sometimes and lose sight of the simple fact that retail is fun. It’s refreshing to see this renewed sense of playfulness amongst luxury (and sub-luxury) brands in particular, injecting their stores with irreverence, wonder, wit and charm. Iconic Seoul-native Tamburins (owned by the equally iconic Gentle Monster), Borntostandout, Diptyque, Diesel and Comme Des Garçons are doing tremendous things here and completely shaking up what we’ve come to expect of luxury retail. This theory is quickly making its way through the European market, with brands such as Coach, Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton following suit. More specifically, Coach’s six-metre tall T-Rex (which they’ve appropriately named Rexy) graces the shopfront window of their Oxford Street flagship in London, surrounded by stunning handbags and luxury apparel; the interior of Balenciaga’s pop-up London boutique is blanketed in baby pink fur; and the hoarding of Louis Vuitton’s under-construction flagship on the Champs Elysee is a giant mirrored suit case/trunk. The creative, unconventional and outrageous innovation and courage are incredibly exciting to see for our industry and serve as a pertinent reminder to have fun with retail and design.
The beauty capital of the world
This is cosmetics, skincare, and fragrance heaven – a new-age, youthfully exuberant, beauty mecca that would rival Europe’s best. Beauty feels engrained in the culture and executed at the highest level everywhere you look. Borntostandout, Nonfiction, Granhand and Sulwhasoo are redefining the category and bringing many of the preceding points to life. For example, Sulwhasoo is building an epic proposition beyond beauty, including underground spas, treatment facilities, a cafe and rooftop gardens. What’s more – and without taking anything away from the Seoul-born brands leading the charge here – is the way international beauty retailers are capitalising on this new mega market, setting up shop with groundbreaking, first-to-market flagship concepts. Diptyque’s purpose-built multi-level flagship, quietly nestled in the back streets of the Gangnam neighbourhood, is one of the best flagship stores I’ve walked in my career. The entire building is conceived as an ornate Parisian mansion, complete with dining rooms, kitchens, bathrooms and lounge rooms – all inspired by the hyper-contextualisation of their fragrances. Hand-drawn illustrations cover marble-clad fixtures and walls, celebrating the illustrative and graphic nature of the brand. Every element and detail is jaw-droppingly beautiful. Neighbouring the flagships of fellow Parisian and French fashion house Maison Margiela, as well as Byredo Suede, brings this theory home for the centre, with a wealth of others sprinkled throughout this special city. World, take note of the most electric beauty culture quietly bubbling away in the background.
Architecture takes centrestage
Striking purpose-built brand temples line the streets of nearly every neighbourhood. Global fashion houses experiment with new concepts and formats, while local cult-followed brands leave no stone unturned in crafting completely revolutionary retail experiences. The level of design ingenuity really is something to behold. It has to be seen to be believed.
Highlights include: two of Dior’s family of flagships: its breathtaking ‘concrete dress’ building and the crystal House of Dior; Gucci’s verdant garden-clad building adjacent; Golden Goose’s Dosan flagship with a bakery and cafe anchoring the entire ground level, complete with basement cobbler and upper retail levels; Starbucks Reserve; and the first global flagship store for Casetify – a phone accessories company venturing into luggage, hardware, hospitality and completely owning the customisation economy.
Also, and perhaps my new favourite building in the world, is Tamburins’ flagship in the uber-cool neighbourhood of Seongsu. A sunken sensory haven nestled beneath an exposed concrete building shell and structure – quite honestly one of the most incredible buildings I’ve seen a retailer create.
The above merely scratches the surface of what Seoul has to offer as a city. It is a place oozing with creativity, courage and culture. It’s a welcomed addition to the personal bank of greatness and one I’ll thoroughly enjoy reminiscing about for years to come.
See you in Seoul.
- This article by Reid Nakou, Chief Experience Officer, The General Store was first published in SCN magazine.
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